Namibia makes another dream come true - a journal
A long dreamed-of journey finally became reality as a carefully-planned December road trip took Mike and Lynette Spenser from Barberton, South Africa, into Namibia’s vast and ever-changing landscapes.
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Mariana Balt
“Namibia was a country I had wanted to visit for many years, and in 2025, my husband and I decided it was now or never. We were getting older and more fragile, and a school friend, Deon Brummer, who owns a lodge in Damaraland, has been inviting us for years to visit, says Lynette Spencer of Barberton.
They told The Travel Thread more about their journey:
They started to plan as early as October, which turned out to be just in time, as they could still not get space everywhere they wanted to overnight. “I peppered school friends who live there, friends who used to live there, and others who had recently travelled through Namibia with questions, and then began putting together a route plan. I joined every Facebook page about Namibia and read every comment.”
They realised soon enough that the myth that you can just arrive and find space everywhere is not entirely true. “I was grateful that I booked our campsites in advance!”
She emphasised the wisdom of buying a Gondwana card, which made accommodation significantly cheaper. “Get a proper road map of Namibia as well, and make sure you get an MTC SIM card for your phone.”
Their journey started with a visit to the Kgalagadi, also a first, and they entered Namibia at the Rietfontein border post. “It was quick and completely hassle-free, as all our paperwork was in order and we had absolutely nothing with us that was prohibited. When planning your trip, make sure of this, as there are quite a few items that could be confiscated,” Lynette warns.
Their first leg took them via Keetmanshoop to Aus, where they spent two nights at Aus Haven, camping in their camping trailer called “Nella”.
On their way to Kolmanskop and Lüderitz the next day, they were privileged to see the famous wild horses of Aus and also visited the ghost town of Kolmanskop.
Not knowing that Lüderitz is known as the windiest town in Namibia, they experienced that firsthand on the way back when their Suzuki Jimny was difficult to keep on the road. At times, the wind was so severe that they could not even see the tar road as desert sand blew across it.
From Aus, they travelled north, first spending two nights at a private wildlife conservation farm, then two more at Namib Desert Camp, a Gondwana lodge. “Our campsite was far from the lodge and completely secluded, with its own bathroom facilities, washing-up amenities and a shaded structure, which made the heat manageable. All helped by the fact that the lodge had a swimming pool we could use.”
From there, they headed to Sesriem and Sossusvlei. “The landscape changed once again, and suddenly we were surrounded only by dunes. The tar road was excellent, and it is only the last few kilometres near Sossusvlei where you drive through proper desert sand.
“That is, if you have a 4x4. If not, you pay a fee and are taken further. The walk across the dunes to the Dead Vlei was quite exhausting but absolutely worth it.” On the way back, they stopped at the famous Dune 45, but just admired the people climbing it like ants.
From Namib Desert Camp, they travelled via Solitaire and Walvis Bay to a friend’s smallholding in Swakopmund. “Everyone warned us about how terrible the road was, and as the designated driver, my nerves were stretched thin! Fortunately, road graders were visible everywhere, and we reached Walvis without any trouble or damage.”
Swakopmund is the holiday hub for Namibians, and it was very busy, so their planned three days were simply too short. “We did, however, drive to Goanikontes, which is said to give a good indication of what the surface of the moon looks like. We also visited Henties Bay, and on the way, saw hundreds of flamingos on the salt pans as well as the Zeila shipwreck.”
“On Christmas Day, we tackled the long stretch to the Huab Lodge and Bush Spa, where my school friend Deon Brummer and his wife Lidia live. On their recommendation, we stayed on tar roads and drove through the most beautiful towns, including Usakos, Karibib, Okahandja, Otjiwarongo, and Outjo. At Khorixas, the road turned to gravel again for the final stretch via Fransfontein to Huab.
“I had only ever read about bush lodges in magazines and seen photos, but what Huab Lodge offered exceeded my wildest expectations. Thankfully, it belonged to friends, and the lodge was fairly quiet with few visitors. We felt like royalty, and the six nights we spent with them passed far too quickly. Apart from a game drive in the Huab River, where we had the extraordinary experience of seeing desert elephants on foot.”
They also visited the Etosha National Park. “Unfortunately, due to heavy rainfall, all the roads leading to the pan itself were closed, and we could not get close, a great disappointment for me."
“On New Year’s Eve, we headed back via Windhoek, where we stayed at Urban Camp, a most incredible campsite. We had barely stopped when other guests offered to help us set up camp, and it ended with us celebrating the New Year together over a braai.
“We did not see much of Windhoek, as the next day was New Year’s Day and everything was closed, but we did manage a quick visit to the Lutheran Church and made it to Joe’s Beerhouse for a beer, marvelling at the interesting décor.
“The next day, we were back on the road to Keetmanshoop via Rehoboth, Kalkrand, and Mariental, where we stayed at La Rochelle Guesthouse – not feeling like setting up the Nella trailer any more. From there, we visited the quiver trees and Giant’s Playground, while the fossil site was closed for December.
“We again crossed back into South Africa via the Rietfontein border post, and I was silent for long stretches. My heart was sore. Namibia was worth every moment, despite many people telling us we were mad to visit in December.
“We planned carefully, and while the South African rand is widely accepted, food is generally more expensive than at home. Fuel is slightly cheaper, and we travelled with two jerry cans that rescued us more than once. In Namibia, you definitely fill up every time you see a petrol station.
“Campsites were affordable, costs ranged between R800 and R1,300 for two nights. Fuel was by far the biggest expense, and I badly underestimated the impact of towing the trailer, which quickly ate into our fuel budget.
“Would we go again? Absolutely.
It is a completely different world; the landscape changes every few kilometres, and the heat is truly not that bad.
It was an amazing adventure!”
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Mariana Balt
Mariana Balt
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